· http://www. · The Cold Climate Housing. My family and me are decided to build the Missouri Design Masonry Stove: http:// because that document is really. He said this about the plans: “The plans you have got should have been taken of the internet long ago.
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DocumentationCommunity Support. Not signed in Sign In. A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. Welcome to new Forum Visitors Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: CommentAuthor jamesingram CommentTime Aug 9th edited. CommentAuthor jamesingram CommentTime Aug 10th This is not true, you can self build from brick, preferably with fire brick fire box liner but not absolutely needed for the really tight budget.
There are detailed designs on the internet noted pub other threads on this forum. The designs even include optional heat exchangers DHW or rads that can be made up by a competent welder with a pipe bender. They do not have to be expensive, they are very efficient and I have 4. And Jim’s come out in spots. Wonder what’s wrong with him?
CommentAuthor wrekin wanderer CommentTime Aug 15th I emailed Lars Helbro, a Danish master stove builder http: He said this about the http: It must be very old, and to read from the text, not made by very experienced stovebuilders. There is a lot of mistakes, and it can be made more efficient, reliable, and not the least for diy – mutch easyer. One major error is the recomandation of using direct outside air pubss combustion.
It can be dangerous!!!. I remember seeing an old thread on here from a guy who had made ones from these plans in Wales, which worked okay for him Hmmm seems to be a bit of a contradiction.
All the masonry stoves I have seen including the 4 I have take the air from the room in which they are located. But them they have all been in traditional leakey houses. As houses are made more air tight I can see this becoming a problem as it is with wood stoves.
And as with wood stoves ,o can see the demand for external sealed air supplies growing. As with any given design the safety of the end result will depend on the design as well as the execution of that design. I have not seen any of the internet designs working, but go 4 work wonderfully and were put together by a masonry stove builder who came by recommendation and he did not have a piece of paper in sight.
CommentAuthor ml CommentTime Aug 16th Peter, could pubx be that drawing air direct from an external source has more of a potential for the stove to overheat by creating a forced draught.
I understood that masonry stoves smouldered rather than burning fiercely. I guess an external air source would need a good, accurate damper. Masonry stoves must never be run on smoulder, they should always be run fiercely. Like any other wood burning stove efficiency goes up and tarring and emissions go down when they are run pbu781 out. In addition if masonry stoves are run with a restricted air supply, due to the convoluted flues ways inherent in the designs combustible gasses can accumulate in the top of the stove and when the door is opened and air oxygen enters drn stove there is a wwoomff, smoke and ash are pushed out of the door and frequently the top will be lifted off the stove.
The way these stoves are used is to burn flat out until there is only smouldering embers left then the stove can be shut down. If the stove is not shut down when the burning is finished then convection will carry much of the heat up the chimney to heat the clouds. Closed down the heat will be given off into the room with only leakage around the door allowing escape up the chimney One of my stoves has an asbestos rope seal on the door to minimise this the others just metal to metal.
The method of use is very much the same as gasifying boilers with thermal stores, just that no water is mmo and the store is thermal mass above the dnt box. The fire box is usually lined with fire brick to aid a long life. When I run mine with a last firing to end at bed time then close down they are still warm at breakfast time. With pubd dry hard wood fuel in 16 years the chimney has not needed cleaning, which is a testament to the cleanness of the burn. I do not know why an external air supply would be considered pub81, any more than an external air supply would be dangerous for a wood stove or a gasifying boiler.
Of course this assumes that external supply is properly designed and fits the stove.
Missouri Department of Natural Resources
I also fail to understand why an external air supply is dangerous and I would like build a small masonry stove in a passive house so not enough leakage to feed the fire!
CommentAuthor tiimjp1 CommentTime Aug 16th Hi Joe and Peter, External Air supplies can be used for Masonry stoves the only issue being that sudden drafts affect the performance of the fire, therefore should be taken from a sheltered supply point.
A well vented sun space or leaky outbuilding is ideal. Efficient Masonry heaters require far far less oxygen supply than the average Metal Stove as they are only run for 1 – 2 hours as Peter states this should be a fast fierce fire and the temperature of the burn should be over degrees which ensures ALL the toxic gases and Creosote are burnt away.
A Masonry Heater usually has two combustion chambers, the main firebox and then a secondary chamber where these gases are burnt away. As Peter states the Masonry heaters burning so Hot ensure that they are very clean and can be used in most Smoke free zones. Regarding the use of a masonry heater in a passive house this has been approved for the Tempcast System and I can provide a copy of test data if anyone requires it.
They use such little oxygen that a well sealed house will cope without issue. The air supply door and chimney damper should both be shut as soon as the fire dies down to retain the heat in the contraflow channels so that theycool whilst heating the storage mass. Tim Sorry I disagree, I doubt that a masonry stove run hard as it should be could be successfully run a house close to passive house air tightness, I remain to be convinced!!.
Just seeing the draught going through my stoves makes me wonder where the air would come from if the house was air tight. Pulling it from the MVHR perhaps. Looking at the TempCast web page I found the following quote “Finally, an optional air supply door may be required in a basement installation without an exterior fresh air supply.
This is installed just under the fire door, to direct air into the air intake slot under the door frame. At the moment, and with out scientific data, I tend to side with the view that says external air source would be prudent. Pbus problems with air turbulence at the intake could be easily dealt puub781, after all we have had turbulence around chimneys ever since they were invented and various solutions have been found with various sorts of cowls.
My masonry stoves run for about 2 hours before they are warm and dne hot in 3 – 4 hours, once hot they give out heat for 8 – 10 hours.
They are between 1. In cold weather as the only source of heating in one of the apartments they will run with a small fire but not smouldering, just smaller loads continual loaded as needed one log at a timeall day with shut down over night to act as a storage puns.
If I were to design a masonry stove I would be inclined to have an external air supply with a closable damper to enable storage heater mode on pu7b81 side of the fire box and an air tight loading door on the other side of the fire box. I would not have a chimney damper, I don’t like them, none of mine have them ml I’m not sure there would be an improvement if the air damper and loading door are tight.
Another design feature I would include is to have no grate, for burning wood only a grate is not needed and in fact the one masonry stove I have like this burns much better than the others, providing you leave a couple of inches of ash permanently in the stove as a fire bed. I’ve just come across this company http: Does anyone have any knowledge of them or their product?
CommentAuthor tiimjp1 CommentTime Aug 18th Hi Peter Would be very interested to discuss your hetaers with you sometime, drn always good to find constructive discussion with existing users. With regard to your points I can add the following: Not all heaters have the same supply issues and some have much higher oxygen consumption than others.
Usually those with high consumption tend to be dirtier albeit the fire may look better, but as you say yours are clean then they must have low consumption. A masonry heater should never be used with a smouldering fire as this will simply push the retained heat up the chimney therefore gaining nothing, and actually removing potential from the initial fire.
As the heat is provided by the radiant mass a period of at least 6 hours should be left between having two fires in one day so that all the heat from the first fire has been dhr by the masonry.
The use of a chimney damper and an air tight air suply door just improve the retention of the heat in the core, the use of a grate is simply to make cleaning out easier where an ash drop is possible, most US homes are constructed this way.
Your heaters are relatively small, how old are they and what designs i would be interested in seeing photos pub7781 you could send to me? Ive just read all your comments regarding the size and cost of masonry and ceramic heaters when looking at greenbuild forum. I produce a silicon Carbide slow heat release ceramic modular heater which will heat up to sq metres but very gently without overheating the space it stands in.
We have heated 13 rooms in an old stone property without any back up for the last 4 years now. CommentAuthor owlman CommentTime Dec 23rd Have the rules on advertising changed? Just passionate about this style of heating. Back to Discussions Top of Page. These two books are the perfect starting place to help you goov to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society – our homes and living environment.
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